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GECKOS / THE KEEPER’S LIBRARY

Leopard Gecko Food: What to Feed and How Often

A feeder table, age based schedule, and supplement plan for feeding leopard geckos correctly.

At a glance: Leopard gecko food is live insects, never fruit or vegetables. Dubia roaches, crickets, and black soldier fly larvae form the staple diet, dusted with calcium. Juveniles eat daily, and adults eat every two to four days, with a shallow water dish always available.

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Leopard gecko food means insects, full stop. These lizards are strict insectivores in the wild. They hunt scorpions, beetles, spiders, and centipedes across the rocky deserts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, and northwest India.

In captivity, a keeper reproduces that diet with farmed feeder insects. Calcium and vitamin D3 powder round out the nutrition. A consistent schedule tied to the gecko’s age keeps growth and weight on track.

Getting leopard gecko feeding right prevents most of the health problems vets see in this species. Metabolic bone disease and impaction top that list.

This guide covers which feeders to buy and how much to offer at each age. It also covers the supplement schedule, gut loading, water, and the foods that should never go in the enclosure.

What Do Leopard Geckos Eat

A leopard gecko’s captive diet should center on two or three staple feeder insects. Staples keep nutrition consistent and are easy to gut load, for example with Repashy Bug Burger. Softer bodied insects then rotate in as occasional treats for variety.

Feeder insect Role in the diet Feeding notes
Dubia roaches Staple Low fat, high protein, quiet, and easy to digest; a strong first choice for daily or every other day feeding
Crickets Staple Classic staple insect; short lived and prone to biting a sleeping gecko if left uneaten overnight
Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) Staple Naturally high in calcium relative to phosphorus, though still worth dusting
Mealworms Occasional to staple for adults Harder exoskeleton; skip for hatchlings and small juveniles
Superworms Treat, adults only Higher in fat than dubia or crickets; too large and strong jawed for juveniles
Silkworms Treat Soft bodied and high moisture; well tolerated by geckos recovering from illness
Hornworms Treat High moisture and low calcium; support hydration but should not replace staples
Waxworms Rare treat Very high in fat; best reserved for underweight geckos or an occasional reward

Feeder insects should measure one half to three quarters the width between the gecko’s eyes. An insect wider than the gecko’s head raises the risk of regurgitation or impaction. This matters most for hatchlings and young juveniles.

Wild caught insects should never go into a leopard gecko’s diet. They can carry pesticide residue or parasites that farmed feeders do not. There is also no way to verify what a wild insect has eaten or been exposed to.

Pinkie Mice and Other Occasional Additions

Adult leopard geckos, particularly females, sometimes accept a pre killed pinkie mouse as an occasional supplement to insects. This is a treat, not a staple. Rodent prey carries far more fat than insects, so it should stay rare.

Males typically show far less interest in pinkies than females do.

Some keepers rotate in silkworms or hornworms specifically for hydration during a difficult shed or after a period of reduced eating. These soft, moisture rich feeders are gentle on a recovering digestive system. They should not replace calcium dusted staples over the long term.

Signs of Overfeeding and Obesity

Overfeeding is less common than underfeeding in pet leopard geckos, but it does happen. Fatty feeders like waxworms and superworms are the usual cause when offered too often. A gecko carrying excess fat develops a visibly thickened tail base that no longer tapers cleanly, along with fat pads near the hind legs and shoulders.

An overweight gecko may also become less active and show reduced interest in exploring its enclosure. If a gecko’s tail looks wider than its body, cut back on high fat treats and shift toward leaner staples like dubia roaches and crickets.

Weigh the gecko periodically if obesity is a concern; steady weight gain without a matching increase in length is the clearest early sign. The Merck Veterinary Manual links restricted exercise and excess calories in reptiles to hepatic lipidosis, a fatty liver condition. Its advice is to raise activity and cut calories gradually over many months, not to crash diet the animal.

How Often to Feed a Leopard Gecko by Age

Feeding frequency changes as a leopard gecko grows. Hatchlings and juveniles build bone and muscle far faster than a full grown adult. The table below gives a working schedule; adjust portions to body condition rather than the calendar alone.

Life stage Age Feeding frequency Portion per feeding
Hatchling 0 to 1 month Daily Small insects sized to the eye width rule, offered until the gecko stops striking
Juvenile 1 to 12 months Daily or every other day As many insects as the gecko eats in one sitting, leftovers removed
Subadult 12 to 18 months Every 1 to 2 days Feed to satiety, then remove uneaten insects
Adult 18 months and older Once daily to every 2 to 4 days (sources differ) Feed to satiety, adjusted to tail condition and weight

Sources differ on the ideal adult feeding interval. One veterinary hospital source recommends feeding adults once daily in the late afternoon, matching their nocturnal activity. Another veterinary care sheet gives every two to four days as sufficient once an adult reaches full size.

Either approach works if the gecko keeps a plump tail base and steady weight. A thinning tail is the signal to feed more often.

A gecko that ignores food for several feedings in a row while losing tail mass needs closer attention. That topic is covered later in this guide.

Leopard geckos reach sexual maturity around 16 to 24 months old. Appetite naturally drops somewhat once growth slows after that point. A gravid or actively breeding female needs more frequent feeding than a resting adult; egg production draws heavily on calcium and fat reserves.

Calcium, Vitamin D3, and Multivitamin Schedule

Every feeder insect should be dusted with a calcium supplement before it goes into the enclosure. This single habit prevents most of the metabolic bone disease cases veterinarians see in pet geckos. Insects alone do not carry the calcium a gecko needs.

A peer reviewed nutrient analysis in Zoo Biology makes the gap concrete. Farmed feeder insects run 15.5 to 19.7 percent crude protein and 1.9 to 29.4 percent fat, but calcium, vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E, thiamine, iodine, and vitamin B12 are the nutrients most likely to fall short. Black soldier fly larvae missed the fewest targets in that study, with 3 shortfalls, while a fatty worm species missed 15.

Life stage Calcium dusting Multivitamin dusting
Juveniles and gravid or breeding females 3 to 4 times per week Once weekly
Non breeding adults 1 to 3 times per week (sources differ) Every other week

Two veterinary sources give slightly different adult calcium frequencies, ranging from once weekly to two or three times weekly for non breeding adults. Both agree that breeding females and growing juveniles need dusting closer to every feeding.

Choose a calcium supplement that is phosphorus free or very low in phosphorus. Leopard geckos need a calcium to phosphorus ratio of at least 2 to 1 in the diet overall. A plain calcium powder without added D3 works for the extra dustings beyond the weekly multivitamin dose.

Vitamin D3 matters even though leopard geckos are nocturnal. Research reviewed by veterinary sources shows the species does use ultraviolet light for D3 synthesis when it is available. A D3 inclusive calcium powder and low level UVB access both support healthy bone density as a result.

Do not stack extra D3 supplementation on top of both a D3 dusted powder and strong UVB exposure. Overdosing D3 is possible and can cause its own health problems. Follow the product label dosing rather than adding more for safety.

Gut Loading Feeder Insects

Gut loading means feeding nutritious food to feeder insects for 24 to 48 hours before use. This keeps usable nutrition in the insect’s gut when the gecko eats it. A dusted but poorly gut loaded insect delivers far less calcium and vitamin content than a well fed one.

See our full gut loading guide for insect specific diets and timing. Keep gut loading food fresh and remove uneaten portions daily. This avoids mold or bacterial growth inside the feeder colony, which can then pass to the gecko.

Veterinary nutrition guidance is specific about what the gut load should contain: vitamin A and at least 8 percent calcium, with a multivitamin, such as Zoo Med Reptivite, that includes vitamin A dusted on about twice a month. Rotating several insect species instead of relying on crickets and mealworms alone is part of the same advice. Vitamin A deficiency in insect fed lizards shows up as swollen eyelids and shedding trouble, so this is not a cosmetic detail.

Insects that go into the enclosure hungry or recently starved offer minimal nutritional value regardless of dusting. Gut loading and dusting work together, not as substitutes for each other. For a broader rundown of feeder types and where to source them, see our feeder insects guide.

Water and Hydration

A shallow, sturdy water dish should stay in the enclosure at all times. Refresh it daily to keep it clean. Leopard geckos drink standing water readily despite their arid native range.

A water dish also backs up the misting sessions used to maintain shedding humidity. Keep the dish shallow enough that a hatchling cannot accidentally submerge. Position it away from the heat source so it does not evaporate within hours.

A humid hide with damp sphagnum moss supports hydration and shedding alongside the dish, not in place of it. See our housing guide for setup details and how often to refresh the moss.

Foods to Never Feed a Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos cannot digest plant matter the way omnivorous or herbivorous reptiles can. Fruit and vegetables have no place in a leopard gecko’s diet. Offering produce adds no nutrition and only risks digestive upset.

  • Fruit of any kind, including soft fruits sometimes suggested for other lizard species
  • Vegetables and leafy greens, which this insectivore cannot process
  • Wild caught insects, due to pesticide and parasite risk
  • Fireflies and lightning bugs, which are toxic to insectivorous reptiles
  • Insects collected near roadsides or treated lawns, for the same chemical exposure reasons
  • Any insect noticeably wider than the gap between the gecko’s eyes, due to impaction risk

Loose substrates create a related risk during feeding. Coarse sand, walnut shell, and corncob bedding can all be ingested while a gecko strikes at prey. Veterinary sources specifically flag these substrates as impaction hazards and recommend solid or easily digestible alternatives instead.

Why Is My Leopard Gecko Not Eating

A leopard gecko that skips a feeding or two is usually not an emergency. This is especially true around a shed cycle or a recent enclosure change. Appetite typically returns within a few days once conditions settle.

Persistent refusal to eat is different and deserves closer attention. Common causes include incorrect enclosure temperatures, illness, impaction, and egg binding in females. Illness in this list includes respiratory infection and internal parasites.

Our health guide and behavior guide cover these signs in more depth.

Check the temperature gradient first. A warm side that has drifted below the 82 to 90 degree Fahrenheit range can suppress digestion and appetite. A nighttime drop that is too severe does the same.

Body condition is the next thing to check. A leopard gecko stores fat in its tail and draws on that reserve during lean periods. A healthy, plump tailed adult tolerates a longer gap without food than a gecko with a thin or shrunken tail.

No veterinary source publishes a safe number of days a leopard gecko can go without food, because the answer depends on age and tail reserves. Use body condition as the rule instead. A hatchling or thin gecko that refuses two or three feedings in a row needs a vet check, while a plump tailed adult in shed or a winter slowdown can be watched for a week or two as long as it holds weight.

A thin tail combined with lethargy, sunken eyes, or visible weight loss is a reason to see a reptile veterinarian rather than wait it out. The same applies to any gecko that stops eating entirely for an extended stretch while losing tail mass. Catching illness early makes treatment far more likely to succeed.

Our full care guide and heating and lighting guide cover the setup that keeps appetite steady in the first place. Females that stop eating while gravid need particularly close monitoring. Egg binding is a serious complication covered in our breeding guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best staple leopard gecko food?

Dubia roaches and crickets are the most widely recommended staples. They are low in fat, easy to gut load, and simple to source in the sizes a growing gecko needs. Black soldier fly larvae make a strong third staple thanks to their favorable calcium to phosphorus ratio.

Can leopard geckos eat mealworms every day?

Mealworms have a harder exoskeleton than dubia roaches or crickets. They suit adults as a regular rotation item rather than a hatchling or juvenile staple. Overfeeding mealworms alone can also unbalance fat intake compared with leaner staples.

Do leopard geckos need a water dish if they get moisture from food?

Yes, a shallow water dish should stay available at all times regardless of feeder insect moisture content. Insects supply only a fraction of the water a gecko needs. A dish also serves as a hydration backup during illness or reduced appetite.

How much calcium powder does a leopard gecko need?

The exact amount depends on feeder size, but the key rule is a light, even coating on every dusted insect rather than a specific gram measurement. Juveniles and breeding females need that coating three to four times a week. Non breeding adults need it roughly one to three times a week depending on the source.

Is it normal for a leopard gecko to refuse food during shedding?

Yes, many leopard geckos eat less or skip a feeding in the day or two around a shed. Appetite typically returns once the old skin has fully come off. A humid hide helps the shed finish on schedule.

What insects are toxic or dangerous as leopard gecko food?

Fireflies and lightning bugs are toxic to insectivorous reptiles and should never be offered. Wild caught insects of any kind carry pesticide and parasite risks that farmed feeder insects do not.

Sources