Insects for Bearded Dragons: The Full Feeder List

As an Amazon Associate, Lizardist earns from qualifying purchases. Some product links on this page are affiliate links.

Choosing the right insects for bearded dragons shapes growth, bone health, and appetite all at once. A bearded dragon’s protein comes almost entirely from live prey. The wrong feeder, fed too often, can undo months of otherwise good care.

This guide lists the feeders worth keeping in rotation. It also covers the worms that come up most in search of “can bearded dragons eat worms,” plus a nutrition table to compare them side by side. A separate guide covers how many crickets to feed by age.

For the full adult and juvenile feeding plan, including how often to offer insects at each life stage, see the complete diet guide. This page goes deeper on the insects themselves.

The best insects for bearded dragons

A staple feeder is one you can offer several times a week without nutrition or cost problems. Three insects fill that role well for most keepers. Each one has a different strength.

Crickets

Crickets are the most common staple. They are widely available, easy to gut load with a product such as Repashy Bug Burger, and sized well for every life stage.

A healthy vertebrate needs roughly twice as much calcium as phosphorus in its blood. Crickets fall well short of that ratio on their own, so calcium dusting at every feeding is not optional. Our cricket keeping guide covers housing and die off.

See gut loading for how to raise a feeder’s nutrient value before it goes in the tank.

Dubia roaches

Dubia roaches carry a thinner exoskeleton than crickets. They move slowly enough for weaker eaters to catch, and they do not chirp or die off loose in the enclosure.

They gut load well and hold their nutrition longer between feedings. Many keepers settle on dubia as the primary feeder once they have tried both.

Black soldier fly larvae

Black soldier fly larvae are sold under brand names such as Phoenix Worms, Calciworms, and Reptiworms. Some listings also call them blue worms for bearded dragons, so the two names describe the same larvae.

Growers market these larvae as naturally higher in calcium than crickets or mealworms. That is why they show up so often in calcium focused feeding plans. Their soft body is also easy for smaller dragons to eat.

Worms for bearded dragons: what is safe and what is a treat

“Worms” is a loose term in the reptile trade. Most of the live bugs for bearded dragons sold as worms are actually beetle larvae, moth larvae, or fly larvae. Each one carries a different nutrition profile.

Mealworms

Mealworms are a common answer to “do bearded dragons eat worms,” and adults handle them fine. Their exoskeleton is harder to digest than a cricket’s, and their fat content runs higher.

Their calcium to phosphorus ratio also sits far below the target. Treat mealworms as a rotation feeder rather than a daily staple, and skip them for hatchlings because of the tough exoskeleton.

Superworms

Superworms are the larger cousin of the mealworm. They share a tough exoskeleton, and their fat content runs even higher.

Reserve superworms for adults and offer them only a few times a week. The fat adds up quickly on an insect this size.

Waxworms and butterworms

Waxworms and butterworms are treat feeders only. Both run heavy in fat, waxworms especially, and a dragon that gets used to them will often refuse healthier insects afterward.

Keep these to an occasional handful. They should never replace a staple feeder.

Silkworms

Silkworms are soft bodied and easy to digest. Many keepers reach for them when they want something gentler than a cricket or a roach.

They cost more and store less easily than the staples above. Most keepers use silkworms a few times a month rather than as a full replacement.

Hornworms

Hornworms grow fast and carry a high moisture content. They work well for dragons that need extra hydration or a break from harder bodied insects.

Most of that body weight is water. Treat hornworms as a hydration boosting extra, not the main protein source.

Earthworms and nightcrawlers

Earthworms are a lower fat option, and some dragons take them readily. Interest varies a lot between individual animals.

Only offer earthworms and nightcrawlers sold as feeders. Never use ones dug from a garden, since wild worms can carry pesticide residue or parasites.

Feeder insect nutrition compared

Nutrient values vary by supplier, insect age, and how the insect was raised. Treat the figures below as a starting range rather than an exact number for every batch. Protein and fat are given on a dry matter basis.

Almost every feeder insect here starts out low in calcium relative to phosphorus. Veterinary nutrition guidance calls for a ratio of at least 1 to 1, and prefers closer to 2 to 1.

That gap is why calcium dusting at most feedings, plus gut loading beforehand, matters more than which single insect you pick.

How many insects to offer and when

Hatchlings and young juveniles eat several small insect items a day, alongside daily greens. Size each one no wider than the space between the dragon’s eyes.

Oversized prey has been linked to partial paralysis and gut impaction, and in severe cases death. Err small rather than large.

Adults need far fewer insects than people expect. Many do fine on a handful of appropriately sized feeders twice a week, once they are eating mostly plant matter.

See our feeding schedule for the full breakdown by age and body weight. Growth milestones that change the feeding plan are covered under growth stages.

Insects to avoid

Never feed a bearded dragon a bug caught outdoors.

Wild insects can carry pesticide residue or parasites. Our wild caught insects guide covers the specific risks in more detail.

Fireflies are toxic and should never be offered, under any circumstance. Avoid any insect collected near a road, lawn, or garden that may have been treated with pesticide.

Skip insects that glow, sting, or carry bright warning colors. Those traits often signal a chemical defense that is unsafe for a dragon to eat.

When in doubt, stick to insects raised specifically as feeders, not anything found in the yard.

Antioxidants and variety in the feeder rotation

Antioxidants for bearded dragons come mostly from vegetables and fruit, not from insects. Still, a varied feeder rotation helps overall nutrition.

Gut loading insects with leafy greens, squash, and a commercial gut load product raises their vitamin content before they reach the dragon.

Rotate two or three staple insects rather than leaning on one insect every day. Variety spreads out any single nutrient gap.

Frequently Asked Questions

What insects do bearded dragons eat most often?

Crickets and dubia roaches make up the bulk of most feeding plans. They gut load well, are sized well at every life stage, and are widely available. Black soldier fly larvae are a strong third option for keepers focused on calcium.

Can bearded dragons eat worms?

Yes, with limits. Mealworms and superworms are fine for adults in rotation. Silkworms and hornworms work as gentler supplements, while waxworms and butterworms should stay occasional treats.

Are blue worms safe for bearded dragons?

Blue worms are a branded name for black soldier fly larvae. They are considered one of the safer, more calcium rich feeder options, and their soft body suits smaller dragons.

What bugs can bearded dragons eat as hatchlings?

Hatchlings should stick to small, soft bodied insects such as pinhead crickets or small dubia nymphs. Size each one no wider than the space between the eyes, and skip mealworms and superworms until the dragon is older.

Do bearded dragons need live insects every day?

Hatchlings and young juveniles need insects daily, alongside fresh greens. Adults typically shift to a plant heavy diet, with insects offered only a couple of times a week.

Is it safe to feed wild caught bugs for bearded dragons?

No. Wild insects carry a real risk of pesticide exposure and parasites, and fireflies are toxic to bearded dragons. Only feed insects raised specifically for reptile food.