At a glance: A deep heat projector for leopard gecko tanks works well on a dimming thermostat. It gives heat with almost no visible light, so it can run at night. Measure the surface temperature of the warm spot instead of trusting the wattage on the box.
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A deep heat projector for leopard gecko enclosures is worthwhile if it has a thermostat, a guard and a safe mount. It gives mostly infrared heat with little visible light. That warms the floor and hides without lighting a nocturnal animal’s room.
It does not replace UVB, and it is not a self regulating device.
This guide covers what the device does and how it compares with halogen and ceramic heat. It also covers sizing, mounting and checking one. For the full equipment overview, see the leopard gecko heating and lighting guide.
What a deep heat projector is
A deep heat projector, often shortened to DHP, is a dome shaped or flat heating element that sits in a lamp fitting and gives off infrared radiation. Most designs give heat with little or no visible light. The Royal Veterinary College (RVC) lists heat projectors, ceramic heat emitters and heat mats as far infrared sources.
It lists halogen bulbs as near infrared.
Makers often describe the output as infrared A and B. No veterinary, university or herpetological society source tests that claim for leopard geckos, so treat it as a maker description. The established principle is that reptiles need a thermal gradient and a full spread of infrared, not one hot point (RVC).
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and shelter under rocks or in burrows by day. Animal Diversity Web notes that adults absorb heat through the belly from warm surfaces. A projector aimed at the floor suits that habit better than a bright overhead lamp.
Deep heat projector vs halogen bulb vs ceramic heat emitter
The three devices differ in light, night use and thermostat compatibility. The table summarizes what the sources support and what is common keeper practice.
| Feature | Deep heat projector | Halogen bulb | Ceramic heat emitter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Infrared class (RVC) | Far infrared | Near infrared | Far infrared |
| Visible light | Little or none (maker claim) | Bright white light | None |
| Night use | Yes, with a thermostat | No, light disturbs sleep (Merck: light bulbs cannot give night heat) | Yes (RVC) |
| Dimming thermostat | Yes, if rated for the wattage (common keeper practice) | Yes (common keeper practice) | Pulse proportional preferred (common keeper practice) |
| Guard needed | Yes (Merck: screen heaters) | Yes (Merck) | Yes (Merck) |
A halogen bulb is the bright option. It creates a visible basking spot, but it can only run by day. It needs a second source if the room is cold at night.
A basking lamp is covered separately.
Ceramic emitters give heat only and last a long time, according to the RVC. Higher wattage gives more heat. The RVC advises a digital maximum and minimum thermometer whatever the wattage.
A projector fits between the two: more infrared than a typical halogen bulb, with no daytime glare.
Is a deep heat projector for leopard gecko care worth it?
It suits a wooden vivarium or glass tank in a room that cools at night. It is a poor fit for a very small tank, which a fixed element can overheat. It also cannot be the only heat if the room often drops below the night minimum.
The sourced night minimum is about 20 C (68 F), given by both the RVC and Vet Times. The RSPCA advises supplementary heat if the room falls below 18 C. A projector on a dimming thermostat can hold that floor without any visible light.
Leopard gecko temperatures to aim for
Published targets differ, so the table gives each source. Pick one range, then confirm it with a thermometer at the surface, not the air.
| Source | Warm spot | Cool end | Night |
|---|---|---|---|
| RVC | About 32 C (90 F) | About 25 C (77 F) | Not below about 20 C (68 F) |
| RSPCA | 28 to 30 C (82 to 86 F) | 24 to 26 C (75 to 79 F) | Heat off, unless room under 18 C (64 F) |
| Vet Times (over a heat mat) | 26 to 30 C (79 to 86 F) | 20 to 21 C (68 to 70 F) | Not below 20 C (68 F) |
The sources disagree on night heat. The RSPCA turns heat off when the room allows. The RVC and Vet Times keep a floor of about 20 C.
A projector is useful in the second case, since it can hold that floor in the dark.
Choosing a wattage
No veterinary source gives a projector wattage by tank size. The only sourced wattage is the RSPCA figure of 60 to 100 W for a guarded ceramic or basking lamp. The RVC adds that a higher wattage gives more heat and that the result must be measured.
The ranges below are common keeper practice, not sourced facts. They are a starting point and need to be tested with a thermometer after a full day of running.
| Enclosure floor (nominal) | Starting wattage (common keeper practice) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Under 2 ft long | 40 to 60 W | Easy to overheat; use a dimming thermostat and a tall enclosure |
| 3 ft long | 60 to 100 W | Matches the RSPCA lamp range |
| 4 ft long or taller cabinets | 100 to 150 W | Heat loss to the room is larger; measure at the surface |
Start low and step up. A strong projector can be dimmed, but a weak one never reaches the warm spot. If the surface passes about 32 C (90 F), the highest published figure, lower the set point or raise the mount.
Thermostat: dimming, pulse or on/off
Every published source used here says to put heat sources on a thermostat. The RVC puts all heat sources on a thermostat. Merck says heaters should be “thermostat controlled, screened from the animals” (reptiles generally).
Without one, a projector keeps heating until the wattage and the room settle.
An on/off thermostat switches the device fully on and off, which suits heat mats. A dimming thermostat lowers the power steadily. Pulse proportional controllers switch power rapidly and are often paired with ceramic emitters (common keeper practice).
Check that the thermostat is rated for the projector’s wattage, and see the thermostat roundup for options.
Place the probe on the surface under the beam, not in the air. The RSPCA warns that thermostats are not always accurate, so use a second thermometer to verify. A dimming thermostat with a probe is the usual pairing.
Dome, guard and mounting height
Merck links burns to unscreened lights and says to screen heaters (reptiles generally). A leopard gecko climbs rocks and branches (Animal Diversity Web), so it can reach a low fixture. Mount the projector on the outside of a mesh lid, or fit a wire guard if it hangs inside.
Use a ceramic socket rated for the wattage and a reflective dome that directs the heat down. A ceramic heat lamp dome and fixture is the usual choice. Plastic sockets can melt under sustained heat.
No source gives a mounting height for leopard geckos, so set it by measurement. Common keeper practice is to start 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) above the floor. Then adjust until the warm spot reads in range.
Do not allow the lamp to touch cloth, plastic or curtains, and keep it clear of flammable material.
Placement, hides and safety
Place the projector over one end only, to build a gradient. Merck recommends heaters at one end, and the RVC advises a warm hide and a cool hide. The gecko needs a hide inside the warm zone and another at the cool end.
Do not use hot rocks. Merck notes that “hot rocks” frequently cause burns, and the University of Liverpool advises avoiding heat rocks. A projector beams down, so it also warms the surface of the hide roof without the contact risk.
- Check the cord, socket and plug for scorching each month.
- Never cover the lid with a towel, since that traps heat.
- Do not run a projector without a thermostat.
- Keep a spare thermometer so a failed probe cannot go unnoticed.
- Unplug the fitting before changing the element.
Merck says reducing ventilation to hold heat is ill advised (reptiles generally). Keep the lid open mesh and adjust the wattage rather than closing vents.
How to measure the warm spot
Use an infrared surface thermometer or a digital probe, and read the floor, not the air. The RSPCA recommends digital or infrared thermometers for daily checks. Take readings at the warm hide, the open floor under the beam and the cool end.
- Run the projector and thermostat for at least 3 hours before testing.
- Read the surface under the beam and compare it with your chosen range.
- Read the cool end, which should stay near the lower figure.
- Read the enclosure again at night, before lights out and in the early morning.
- Adjust the set point by small steps, then retest the next day.
A maximum and minimum digital thermometer, advised by the RVC, shows the overnight low without waking the animal. Log readings for a week when you first set it up. After that, a weekly check is enough.
Should you buy one?
Choose a projector if you want night heat without light and can guard and mount it safely. Choose halogen for a bright daytime basking spot. Choose a ceramic emitter for the simplest heat only option.
Product picks for lamps live on the best heat lamp page. If you want a projector, a deep heat projector in the 60 to 100 W range covers most 3 ft enclosures as a starting point.
The wider setup, including hides and the enclosure, is on the leopard gecko housing page. For a species overview, start with the leopard gecko guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a deep heat projector stay on all night?
Yes, if it is on a thermostat, since it gives little visible light. The RVC and Vet Times keep nights at about 20 C (68 F) or above. The RSPCA turns heat off if the room is warm enough.
Does a DHP replace UVB for a leopard gecko?
No. A projector gives heat, not ultraviolet. A study of leopard gecko hatchlings (Oonincx 2020) found they make vitamin D3 under UVB.
Growth was the same without it on an adequate diet.
Can I use a deep heat projector for leopard gecko heat with a mat?
Many keepers do, but the sources do not give a ratio. Vet Times describes a mat covering one third to one half of the floor with the probe over it. If you add a projector, put both on separate thermostats and cap the total at the target range.
What happens if the projector fails at night?
The enclosure will cool toward room temperature. If the room is above 18 C (RSPCA), a healthy adult will tolerate a short outage. Check the gecko and thermometer in the morning and replace the element.
How long does a projector element last?
No veterinary source gives a figure. Makers usually claim a long life. Inspect the element for cracks or falling output.
Is a deep heat projector safe with a plastic lid?
Not directly. Use a ceramic socket and keep the element clear of plastic and cloth. A mesh or metal lid with a guard is safer than a solid plastic one.
Sources
- Merck Veterinary Manual: Management and Husbandry of Reptiles. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/exotic-and-laboratory-animals/reptiles/management-and-husbandry-of-reptiles
- Royal Veterinary College Exotics: Reptile heating and lighting guide 2024. https://rvc.ac.uk/Media/Default/Beaumont%20Sainsbury%20Animal%20Hospital/EXOTICS/Animal%20Care%20Factsheets/Reptile-heating-lighting-guide-2024-jh.pdf
- Royal Veterinary College Exotics: Leopard gecko care 2024. https://www.rvc.ac.uk/Media/Default/Beaumont%20Sainsbury%20Animal%20Hospital/EXOTICS/Animal%20Care%20Factsheets/Leopard%20gecko%20care%202024%20jh.pdf
- RSPCA: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet. https://www.rspca.org.uk/documents/1494939/0/Leopard%2BGecko%2BCare%2BSheet%2B%28PDF%2B379KB%29.pdf
- Vet Times: Management, care and common conditions of leopard geckos. https://www.vettimes.com/clinical/exotics/management-care-and-common-conditions-of-leopard-geckos
- University of Liverpool Veterinary Science: Leopard gecko. https://www.liverpool.ac.uk/media/livacuk/veterinaryscience/Leopard,gecko.pdf
- Animal Diversity Web: Eublepharis macularius. https://animaldiversity.org/accounts/Eublepharis_macularius/
- Oonincx et al. 2020, Comparative Biochemistry and Physiology Part B 250. https://edepot.wur.nl/531850