Flying Gecko

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The flying gecko does not really fly. It glides. Loose skin along its body and tail works like a built in parachute, softening its drop from one tree trunk to the next.

This small nocturnal gecko is native to Southeast Asia. It belongs to the gecko family and goes by several names: parachute gecko, Kuhl’s flying gecko, and in Spanish, gecko volador. It looks alien, but it is not an easy first pet.

Most flying geckos in the pet trade are the species Ptychozoon kuhli. Recent genetic studies moved the genus Ptychozoon into the larger genus Gekko, so the Reptile Database now lists it as Gekko kuhli. Most keepers and sellers still use the older name.

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Flying Gecko Care at a Glance

Flying gecko care comes down to three things: height, humidity and cover. This gecko spends its life pressed flat against vertical bark. Floor space matters far less than a tall enclosure packed with cork bark and foliage.

Most flying geckos sold today are still wild caught, not captive bred. Handling stresses this species easily. It suits keepers who already have some gecko experience more than total beginners.

A crested gecko or leopard gecko is a gentler starting point. The guide to choosing a first pet lizard explains why. Done well, keeping this species rewards patience over interaction.

What a Flying Gecko Looks Like and Where It Comes From

The flying gecko’s most obvious feature is loose skin along its sides, limbs and tail, plus heavily webbed toes. These flaps make it nearly disappear against bark when flattened. They also work as an airfoil when the animal leaps.

The flaps are passive skin, with no bones or muscles to control them. Drop tests published in the Journal of Herpetology in 2002 found the webbed feet do much of the steering, and that the flaps only slow a fall once the gecko is moving fast enough.

Gliding has evolved in three separate gecko lineages in Southeast Asia. Researchers link that repeated evolution to the region’s tall dipterocarp rainforests.

The species ranges across southern Thailand, Myanmar, Peninsular Malaysia, the Nicobar Islands and Singapore. It also occurs across Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Sulawesi and Bali, always in lowland rainforest. Adults reach a snout to vent length of up to about 4.25 inches, closer to 6 inches with the tail.

Researchers suspect what keepers call “the flying gecko” may actually be several similar species, still waiting to be formally described. In practice, almost every animal sold under this name is treated as Ptychozoon kuhli. That is the animal this guide describes.

Enclosure Setup

A single adult does well in a tall enclosure around 18 by 18 by 24 inches, commonly sold as a 20 gallon tall tank. Add roughly 10 gallons for each extra gecko housed together. Never mix two adult males, since they will fight.

Orient the whole setup around height. Cork bark rounds leaned vertically give the gecko its preferred resting surface. Branches, vines and dense foliage create the climbing routes and hides it needs to feel secure.

A moisture retaining substrate such as coco fiber, mixed with sphagnum moss, helps hold humidity. Add a humid hide and a water dish, though flying geckos mainly drink droplets misted onto leaves. The guide to building a lizard enclosure covers this same planted approach in more depth.

Heating and Lighting

Daytime temperatures should sit around 78 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking area should stay under 95 degrees, since this species overheats fast. Nighttime temperatures should not fall below about 70 degrees.

A low output UVB bulb, such as the Arcadia ProT5 Kit Forest 6%, over part of the enclosure is a reasonable precaution, even for a mainly nocturnal gecko. Pair it with a low wattage heat bulb on a thermostat. Always leave shaded, unheated spots for the gecko to retreat to.

Humidity is arguably harder to manage here than heat. Most keepers mist the enclosure two to three times a day. A small ventilated gap plus dense planting lets humidity climb without the tank turning stagnant.

What Flying Geckos Eat

This species is a strict insectivore. Roaches and crickets, plus occasional soft bodied feeders like small phoenix worms, make up most of a healthy diet. Offer roughly 4 to 6 prey items every other day for an adult.

Dust feeder insects with calcium and vitamin D3 at most feedings. Add a general reptile multivitamin about once a week. Some keepers also offer a commercial gecko diet or a little soft fruit as an extra.

This species hunts at night and ambushes prey from a vertical perch. Feeding often works best in the evening, with loose insects released into the enclosure. For portion sizes across species, see what lizards eat.

Health and Common Problems

The most common health issue in new flying geckos is mites, since most trade stock is still wild caught. Quarantine new arrivals away from other reptiles. Check closely around the eyes, toes and skin folds, where mites tend to cluster.

A reptile veterinarian can advise on safe mite treatment. Wheezing, bubbling at the nose or lethargy can signal respiratory illness, often linked to enclosures that run too cold or too dry. Poor shedding, especially stuck skin around the toes, usually points to low humidity.

Wild caught animals also tend to arrive stressed and dehydrated. A slow acclimation period with minimal handling gives a new gecko its best chance of settling in. The site’s lizard health guide covers more early warning signs.

Behavior and Temperament

Flying geckos are shy, nocturnal and built around camouflage rather than confrontation. By day they flatten against bark, using their skin flaps to erase their own shadow. They generally stay still unless directly disturbed.

When threatened, a flying gecko usually freezes first. Its next move is to drop and glide away, using the same flaps that give it its name. That makes it a poor candidate for regular handling.

Most keepers treat this species as a display animal to watch at night, not a lizard to interact with. That puts it in similar company to a satanic leaf tailed gecko or a tokay gecko, both kept mainly for camouflage.

Breeding

Mature females lay a pair of eggs at a time, gluing them firmly to a hard surface such as cork bark or the enclosure glass. This happens roughly every 2 to 3 weeks through a season, once pairs are stable and well fed, as explained in our flying gecko breeding guide.

Eggs are usually left in place rather than moved, since the glued bond is strong and eggs can be damaged if pried off. Incubation takes about 60 to 90 days at room temperature in a humid enclosure. Hatchlings emerge at roughly 1.5 inches long.

Hatchlings need daily feeding on fruit flies and other very small insects. They also need the same high humidity and cover as adults, just scaled down to a smaller enclosure.

Lifespan and Size

Adults reach a total length of about 6 inches, including the tail. That makes them a mid sized gecko, larger than a mourning gecko but smaller than a tokay gecko.

Lifespan varies sharply with origin. Wild caught animals, which still make up much of the trade, commonly live only 3 to 5 years in captivity, due to parasite load and import stress. Captive bred animals kept well have been reported living close to 10 years.

Cost of a Flying Gecko

A captive bred or farmed juvenile typically costs somewhere in the 30 to 60 dollar range from a reptile specialty seller, before shipping. That is inexpensive compared with many other display geckos. The bigger ongoing cost is the enclosure, since a tall, planted, humidity controlled setup costs more than a simple ground dwelling tank.

Because so much of the trade is still wild caught, it is worth asking a seller directly whether an animal is captive bred. Captive bred stock tends to settle in faster and carries a lower parasite risk. Keeper reports also suggest it tends to live substantially longer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do flying geckos actually fly?

No. A flying gecko glides rather than flies, using skin folds along its body and tail as a parachute. That gliding habit is also why it is commonly called the parachute gecko.

Is a flying gecko a good pet for beginners?

Not usually. The flying gecko needs precise humidity control and dislikes handling. Much of the trade is still wild caught, so most keepers suggest starting with an easier species like a leopard gecko or crested gecko first.

What does gecko volador mean?

Gecko volador is simply Spanish for flying gecko. It refers to the same animal, Ptychozoon kuhli, that English sources call the flying gecko or parachute gecko.

What do flying geckos eat in captivity?

Flying geckos eat appropriately sized roaches and crickets as their staple diet, dusted with calcium and vitamin D3. Offer prey every other day, sometimes supplemented with soft bodied feeders like phoenix worms.

How long do flying geckos live?

Wild caught flying geckos often live only 3 to 5 years due to import stress and parasites. Captive bred animals kept in stable conditions have been reported living close to 10 years.

Can you handle a flying gecko?

You can, but it is not recommended as a routine activity. Flying geckos are easily stressed by handling, and tend to respond to disturbance by gliding away rather than tolerating being held.